“Is there such a thing as, like, a cold potato soup?”
Enthusiasm for food flagging amid a heat wave, my husband assumed he was grasping at straws. Little did he know he was lighting a fire under my own tepid culinary ambitions.
“Actually, there is,” I replied. “It’s called Vichyssoise, and it’s a pretty famous dish.”
Lighter than it sounds, it would elevate the moist, new potatoes from our garden. And made with our purple potatoes, Vichyssoise — typically a blank slate for colorful garnishes — would be a feast for the eyes all on its own.
The silky texture of Vichyssoise comes from pureeing soft potatoes with sliced leeks and chicken stock, inviting cooks to add half-and-half or cream at their discretion. Served with a lush green salad and fresh-baked, crusty bread, it’s one in an entire genre of chilled soups perfect for reinvigorating summer menus while keeping the kitchen cool.
Above all, chilled soups should be very, very smooth. Viscosity that can be sipped from shot glasses — a playful and elegant device for summer gatherings — is the goal.
Absent a high-quality blender or food processor, a fine-mesh sieve accomplishes this texture. Otherwise, cooks risk a dish that plays more on the palate like watery potato salad, or — in the case of gazpacho — straight-up salsa. Only distinct ingredients — whole corn kernels, for example — stirred into the finished soup should constitute chunkiness.
Save the salsa — I use that term loosely — for garnishing portions of chilled soup. Finely diced cucumber and Kalamata olives with mint over a dollop of plain yogurt nudge Vichyssoise toward Greek cuisine. Chopped hard-boiled eggs and snipped chives, meanwhile, are classic garnishes for this French-inspired dish.
For cucumber-basil gazpacho, halved cherry tomatoes make a striking contrast. Diced fruits and berries heighten the delicate flavor of cold zucchini soup. Edible blossoms — nasturtiums are my standby — can adorn any of these recipes.
These light soups handle heavy dose of spice, seasonings
Chilled soups also are a canvas for herb and spice-infused oils. Cooks with a surplus of garden herbs can blend them with fine-quality olive oil, transfer to a squeeze bottle, then free their imaginations to paint the surface of these soups, greens, pasta dishes, pizza, whatever appeals to the artist’s eye.
Smoked paprika oil adds a savory, vibrant flourish. To make smoked paprika oil, warm 1/3 cup olive oil with 2 tablespoons smoked paprika in a small saucepan, then strain through cheesecloth and cool before using.
Croutons are a popular topper for chilled soups, but cooks can fortify the soup itself with stale bread for a more satisfying meal. Soak the bread first, then squeeze out excess liquid before pureeing with the other soup ingredients.
When seasoning chilled soups, don’t be timid. Cold numbs the palate and dulls taste sensations, so these soups likely need more salt than a soup served hot. Acid is essential, with citrus juice often the predominant source. But a dash of vinegar, sherry and other spirits — tequila, vodka, even sparkling wine — impart depth and balance.
These soups’ cooling effects invite more spice, as well. Choose fresh ginger, jalapeno or hot pepper sauces, such as Sriracha. A sprinkle of sugar keeps the burn in the background while bringing out the natural sweetness of fresh-picked summer produce.
Make these soups as many as two days before serving and keep in the refrigerator. Stir well, or briefly blend again, if ingredients have separated.
Vichyssoise (Chilled Leek and Potato Soup)
3 cups peeled and sliced potatoes
3 cups sliced leeks, white parts only
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock or broth
Salt, to taste
1/2 to 1 cup heavy cream
White pepper, to taste
2 to 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives
In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, simmer the potatoes, leeks, stock or broth and a bit of salt for 40 to 50 minutes, or until vegetables are tender.
Pass mixture through a food mill or transfer it to a blender and puree until smooth. Pass milled or pureed soup through a fine-mesh strainer. Stir in enough of the cream to reach desired consistency, then season with the white pepper and additional salt. Oversalt slightly, as salt loses flavor in chilled dishes.
Chill soup. When ready to serve, ladle into cups and garnish with the chives.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Cucumber-Basil Gazpacho
Peel and chop 3 medium seedless cucumbers. Combine in a bowl with 2 ribs celery, chopped; 1 yellow bell pepper, cored and chopped; 2 garlic cloves, peeled; 2 slices white bread, torn into pieces; 1/2 cup Greek yogurt; 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 cup water.
Transfer half of mixture to a blender jar and process until very smooth. Pour blended mixture into a clean bowl and repeat blending step with second half of mixture. Refrigerate, covered, until chilled.
To serve, blend 1 cup soup with 1 cup fresh basil and 2 tablespoons fresh parsley until very smooth. Stir mixture back into soup. Serve very cold.
Makes 6 servings.
Cold Zucchini Soup
3 medium zucchini, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
4 1/2 cups chicken stock, divided
1 1/2 cups plain yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the zucchini, onion, bay leaf, parsley and thyme with 1 cup of the chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer mixture for about 10 minutes, or until zucchini is tender. Remove bay leaf, parsley and thyme. Puree mixture in a blender or food processor until it is of uniform consistency.
For a smooth soup, strain puree by pressing it through a strainer or sieve with back of a spoon. An unstrained soup will have a slight texture. Add remaining chicken stock, the yogurt, lemon juice, salt and white pepper and stir well to blend. Pour soup into a 1 1/2-quart covered container; chill for at least 1 hour before packing in a cooler.
Makes 8 servings.
Recipe from “Picnic: 125 Recipes with 29 Seasonal Menus,” by DeeDee Stovel (Storey, 2009).

Peach-Tomato Gazpacho With Cucumber Yogurt
5 large peaches, peeled, pitted and divided
3 large tomatoes, cored and divided
1/2 cup coarsely chopped sweet onion
3 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar
Salt and white pepper, to taste
3/4 cup finely diced English cucumbers
1/3 cup plain, Greek-style yogurt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Cut 4 of the peaches and 2 of the tomatoes into quarters and put in a food processor or blender. Add the sweet onion and vinegar and process until smooth.
Chop remaining peach and tomato. Stir into pureed mixture. Season with the salt (if it tastes bitter, salt will add sweetness) and white pepper to taste. Chill for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the cucumber, yogurt and the 2 tablespoons chopped, fresh chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill for 1 to 24 hours (chilling can dull seasoning, so you may need to add more salt and pepper before serving).
Ladle gazpacho into bowls. Spoon cucumber mixture over gazpacho. Drizzle each serving with about 1 teaspoon of the olive oil and serve immediately.
Makes about 8 (1-cup) servings.
Recipe from Southern Living magazine.
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