Beloved local peach varieties signify summer in Southern Oregon

by | Recipes, Vegetarian, Summer

“Millions of peaches — peaches for me.”

“Millions of peaches — peaches for free.”

The hit lyrics from the Presidents of the United States of America couldn’t have been more suited to my family’s Saturday morning at a local U-pick orchard.

Well, it wasn’t millions of peaches my family picked at Central Point’s Coats Ranch. But it’s more than we can eat in a sitting. So the question becomes how to use dozens of peaches if we don’t plan on canning halves or slices or processing them into jam.

And the fruit definitely wasn’t free. But we’re willing to pay close to $2 per pound to harvest our own locally grown, juicy peaches whose sugars developed prior to picking and whose texture hasn’t suffered from travel a state or more away.

Peaches, like pears, remain a fruit of distinction in the Rogue Valley, and it wouldn’t be summer without a taste of our region’s famed Red Havens or Forty-Niners, not to mention late-season Sweet Sues and the classic canning variety Elberta.

“Peachpalooza” is a local tradition at Harry & David Country Village, which hasn’t set a date for this year’s event. Other popular peach U-picks are Ashland’s Valley View Orchards and Talent’s Sugar Plum Acres. Taste Rolling Hills peaches on restaurant menus and arrive at farmers markets early before local peach growers sell out.

Preserve peaches as sweet or savory condiments

Lacking the enthusiasm — and pantry space — for shelf-stable food preservation, I’ve gravitated more to freezing and whipping up small-batch condiments over the years. Anything that I can simmer with sugar, quick-pickle or otherwise acidify and store in the fridge for a couple of weeks — if it lasts that long — is right up my alley.

Fruit compote for yogurt and ice cream is a go-to. So are chutneys that enhance our favorite meals inspired by Indian cuisine.

And with plenty of chiles in the garden, but a scarcity of ripe tomatoes, peaches seem a likely stand-in for salsa. The following recipe could easily be halved and the ingredients combined fresh for pico de gallo, rather than cooking and canning.

I did buy some beef tongue at the Coats Ranch farm store with the promise that, pressure-cooked, it would make the best tacos my son has ever tasted. We also took home a dozen ears of corn that could pair with peaches once we’ve had our fill from the cob.

Peach Salsa ingredients. (Gretchen McKay/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS)

Peach-Chili Salsa

6 cups peeled, pitted and chopped peaches (from about 6 medium-sized fruit)
1/2 cup vinegar (5-percent acidity)
1 1/4 cups chopped red onion (about 1 medium)
4 jalapeño chilies, stemmed and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored and chopped
1/2 cup loosely packed cilantro, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons honey

Wash the peaches, chilies and cilantro under cold, running water; drain. To peel peaches, plunge in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Immediately transfer to cold water. Pull off skins. Measure peaches and drop into the vinegar or sprinkle with Fruit-Fresh to prevent darkening. In a large saucepan, combine peaches and vinegar with the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to prevent sticking.

Ladle hot salsa into a clean, hot jar, leaving 1/2 inch head space at top. Remove air bubbles by stirring with a clean knife. Clean jar rim. Center lid on jar and adjust band to fingertip-tight. Place jar on rack elevated over simmering water (180 F) in a canner. Repeat until all jars are filled.

Lower rack into simmering water; water must cover jars by 1 inch. Adjust heat to medium-high, cover canner and bring water to a rolling boil. Process half-pint jars for 15 minutes. Turn off heat and remove cover. Let jars cool for 5 minutes. Remove jars from canner; do not retighten bands if loose. Cool for 12 hours. Check seals. Label and store. 

Makes 8 half-pint jars.

Recipe adapted by Tribune News Service from the “Ball Blue Book” (Hearthmark, $13.95).


Peach Chutney

1 tablespoon neutral oil, like rice bran oil
1 teaspoon onion seeds (or nigella)
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
4 to 6 peaches, peeled and diced (about 1 quart)
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon red chile powder
Salt, to taste
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar (optional)

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Once oil is hot, but not smoking, add the onion and cumin seeds. Fry for a minute. Do not let seeds burn.

Add the minced ginger and turmeric; reduce heat to medium high. Cook, stirring continuously, for about 3 minutes.

Add the peaches, vinegar and chile powder; use liquid to scrape any bits of ginger or spices that may have stuck to pan’s bottom. Season with salt and taste. All fruit has different sugar levels. If you need to bolster sweetness, add sugar. Simmer for about 10 minutes on low heat. Peaches should be slightly soft but still hold their shape.

Makes about 2 cups.


Corn and Peach Salad

5 ears fresh corn, husks and silk removed 
3 peaches, pitted and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 jalapeno chili, stemmed, seeded and very finely diced
1/2 red onion, peeled and diced
1 handful cilantro, chopped
Juice of 2 limes
Salt, to taste

Boil the corn in large pot for 5 minutes. Remove corn from pot, drain well then grill for 1 minute on each side.

Cool corn slightly. Cut kernels off cobs. Place corn in a large bowl to cool. Add the remaining ingredients, mix well and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Sarah Lemon

Journalist and food writer turned cooking instructor who believes that healthy food is within anyone’s reach — and can taste delicious.

2 Comments

  1. Jani Hale

    I was just talking with friends the other day about our parents eating choices —- my dad LOVED beef tongue sandwiches. Tongues were for sale everywhere from Safeway to Thunderbird. Can’t wait to hear about your tacos.

    Reply
    • Sarah Lemon

      Jani, in some respects I have old-fashioned tastes. And organ meats, in general, are one of my favorites. My older son is totally on board: heart, liver, even kidneys. Lengua is my go-to from traditional taquerias, and we prepare offal from locally raised animals at home. My younger son is a vegetarian, but before he made that decision, one of his favorite meals was beef marrow bones with baguette!

      It is a sign of the times that tongue is no longer common in grocery stores (I remember it when I was a kid!). But Mexican butchers and farmers markets are still carrying that torch locally. And they can command a lot higher price for it now than decades in the past!

      Reply

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