The time has come to baby basil. Lest they blacken once nights turned frigid, my garden’s lushest, least leggy basil are ensconced in terra cotta pots indoors.

For mint, there’s no such accommodation. A persistent perennial, the herb will wait out winter in its pot by the kitchen door — sheltered on the back patio. Long after the basil has dropped its leaves, mint will impart bright, fresh flavor to my family’s meals, particularly Thai, Indian and Middle Eastern-inspired fare.

I haven’t pushed mint’s limits yet, not after its painfully slow start this spring. Accustomed to potted mint showing new growth as early as March, I watched almost every other herb in the yard — even heat-loving basil — leaf out while my mint lay dormant. Did it die after years in the same pot and indifferent watering all winter?

I planted a new mint seedling, then another. Believing the15-inch-diameter cobalt-glazed ceramic pot was the problem, my husband selected peppermint at the nursery and settled it into a smaller, unglazed pot nearby.

Peppermint, I explained, is the variety of choice for tea, ice cream, candies and a plethora of consumer products. It happens to be a major commodity crop in Oregon where the Willamette Valley’s rainfall ensures velvety, vibrantly hued leaves.

Spearmint, by contrast, is the type most often used as a fresh herb, and the type I’ve typically grown. But there are over 15 types of mint, including orange mint, apple mint and chocolate mint — the only type left at local nurseries in early summer when I was so desperate to restore my mint pot to its former glory.

I nursed along the straggling stems, reluctant to pick too many at once for our favorite tzatziki although the garden was overrun with Armenian cucumbers. But as my basil started turning woody, its leaves losing their shine, my mint finally rose to the occasion, flouting its ceramic confines in fragrant cascades.

Mint chutney is Indian food’s must-have accompaniment

Dutifully stocking the freezer each fall with basil pesto, I’m now inclined to add mint chutney to our condiment cache. A hearty curry of red lentils and butternut squash that I prepared this week practically cried out for the palate-cleansing punch of mint chutney — as ubiquitous in Indian and Pakistani restaurants as ketchup is in American diners. I vowed to make a batch the next time an Indian-inspired recipe was on the menu.

And you should, too. Even if your korma and tikka masala come from a jar, even if your naan comes frozen, homemade mint chutney redeems these mealtime shortcuts. Quickly and almost effortlessly concocted in a blender, this recipe only requires a few fresh ingredients that span culinary genres and are worth keeping on hand.

Another delightful way with mint is this cashew-based dressing. If you’ve never blended cashews with the same quantity of liquid, you’ll be amazed at the creamy results. Diners don’t need to be vegan to appreciate this dairy-free alternative to sour cream or yogurt with Latin and Indian dishes. Cashew-mint dressing also makes a delicious veggie dip, sandwich spread and all-around cool condiment.

Mint Chutney

1 3/4 ounces mint leaves
1 3/4 ounces cilantro leaves
1 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped
3 small green chilies, stemmed
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice

Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor, and process until smooth. This chutney can be kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 days.

Makes 8 servings.